Steering, suspension and driveshaft guide

Car Clicking Noise When Turning

A clicking noise when turning is often linked to a worn CV joint, split CV boot, driveshaft wear, loose suspension part, steering linkage fault or wheel-related issue. The biggest clues are whether it clicks on full lock, happens at low speed, changes when turning left or right, or started after a pothole or wheel repair.

Mechanic tip: repeated clicking on slow full-lock turns is one of the classic signs of outer CV joint wear, especially if there is grease around the inside of the wheel or arch liner.

Quick answer

Repeated clicking on full-lock turns, especially at low speed, is commonly caused by a worn outer CV joint. If there is grease around the wheel arch, driveshaft or suspension area, a split CV boot may have let grease escape and allowed dirt into the joint.

Do not ignore clicking that gets louder, happens on one side, appears after a pothole, or comes with vibration, knocking, steering looseness, pulling or visible grease.

What clicking when turning feels like in real life

Click-click-click on full lock

Often points towards outer CV joint wear, especially on front-wheel-drive cars.

Clicking while reversing

A worn CV joint can be more obvious when reversing out of a driveway or parking space.

Grease near the wheel

Grease splattered around the inner wheel area strongly suggests a split CV boot.

CV boot MOT guide →

Clicking after tyre work

Check wheel fittings, wheel trims and anything disturbed during recent work.

Clicking with knocking

May involve suspension, steering joints, strut top mounts or anti-roll bar links.

Knocking when turning →

Clicking with vibration

Worn shafts, wheel issues, bearings or tyre faults may need checking.

Steering wheel shake →

Common reasons a car clicks when turning

Worn outer CV joint

A classic cause of rhythmic clicking on tight turns or full lock.

Driveshaft wear

Wear in the driveshaft or joints can cause clicking, vibration or knocking under load.

Loose suspension joint

Bushes, ball joints or links can click or knock as load shifts while turning.

Ball joint MOT guide →

Wheel fitting issue

Loose wheel bolts, trims, centre caps or poor fitting can create clicking under load.

Brake or shield contact

A loose brake shield, pad clip or debris can click around the wheel area.

Brake warning signs →

Tyre scrub

At full lock, some tyres make scrub noises that can be mistaken for clicking.

CV joint clicking symptoms

A CV joint transfers drive while the front wheels steer and the suspension moves. When the outer joint wears, it often clicks most clearly during slow, tight turns, such as parking, reversing out of a driveway or turning sharply at junctions.

  • 1Repeated clicking while turning left or right.
  • 2Noise worse on full lock.
  • 3Clicking louder when accelerating gently while turning.
  • 4Grease visible near the wheel, arch liner, suspension or driveshaft.
  • 5Clicking becomes louder or more frequent over time.
  • 6Vibration, knocking or shuddering if wear becomes severe.

Clicking when turning left or right

The direction of the turn can help, but it does not always prove the faulty side from the driver’s seat. Noise can travel through the body, suspension and subframe.

Clicks mainly turning left

The loaded side and the affected CV joint or suspension part should be inspected carefully.

Clicks mainly turning right

A garage may road test the car both ways and inspect both front driveshafts and boots.

Clicks both directions

Could be more than one worn joint, a steering/suspension issue, tyre scrub or wheel-area fault.

Clicks only on full lock

Often more CV-joint related than a general suspension knock.

What to check first

1. Notice when it clicks

Full-lock parking, reversing, junction turns and low-speed manoeuvres are useful clues.

2. Identify the side

Try to notice whether the noise is louder from the left, right, front or rear.

3. Look for grease

Grease splattered around the inner wheel area often points to CV boot failure.

4. Check wheel security

Do not ignore clicking after recent tyre, brake, suspension or wheel work.

5. Listen for heavier knocks

Knocking may suggest suspension, steering, mount or wheel bearing wear.

6. Book a front-end inspection

A ramp inspection can confirm CV, steering, suspension and wheel-area faults.

Can you drive with a clicking noise when turning?

If the click is mild and only just started, you may be able to drive carefully for a short time, but the vehicle should be inspected soon. Avoid hard acceleration on full lock and avoid ignoring grease from a split CV boot.

Avoid continuing to drive if the clicking is loud, vibration appears, steering feels loose, the car pulls badly, there is visible grease from a split CV boot, or the noise started after wheel or suspension work.

Typical UK repair costs

CV boot replacement

Often cheaper if caught before the joint wears out.

CV joint or driveshaft

Moderate cost depending on vehicle, parts design and labour time.

Suspension or steering joint

Costs vary by component and whether wheel alignment is needed after repair.

Wheel fitting issue

May be simple if caught early, but unsafe if ignored.

Brake shield or clip

Often lower cost if the fault is minor and easily accessible.

Multiple front-end faults

Costs rise if tyres, suspension, steering and driveshaft faults are found together.

Early inspection can reduce cost, especially if only the CV boot is damaged and the joint is still healthy.

Clicking noise when buying a used car

A clicking noise on a test drive is worth taking seriously. It may be a simple boot issue, but it can also mean a CV joint, driveshaft or suspension repair is needed soon.

  • Turn full lock both ways in a safe car park and listen for repeated clicking.
  • Check for grease around the front wheels and arch liners.
  • Ask whether any driveshaft, CV boot or suspension work has been done.
  • Check the MOT history for CV boot, suspension or steering advisories.
  • Do not ignore clicking that the seller describes as “normal”.

Before buying, read used car inspection checklist, used car test drive checklist and how to check MOT history before buying a car.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my car click on full lock?

A worn outer CV joint is one of the most common causes, especially if the clicking is repeated and happens during slow tight turns.

Can a split CV boot cause clicking?

Yes. If grease escapes, the CV joint can dry out, collect dirt and start clicking as it wears.

Is clicking when turning dangerous?

It can become dangerous if linked to drivetrain, steering, suspension or wheel fitting faults. Loud or worsening clicking should be inspected.

Can wheel bearings click when turning?

Wheel bearings more often hum or rumble, but wheel-area faults should still be checked if the noise changes while turning.

Should I replace the whole driveshaft?

Sometimes, but diagnosis should confirm whether the CV boot, CV joint or complete driveshaft is actually needed.

Can clicking when turning fail an MOT?

Yes, if the cause is a split CV boot, steering play, suspension wear, loose wheel fitting or another safety-related defect.

Why does it click after hitting a pothole?

A pothole can damage wheels, tyres, suspension joints, steering parts or disturb worn components that were already weak.

Best next step?

Check for grease or split CV boots, note which direction causes the click, and book a front suspension, steering and driveshaft inspection.