A knocking noise when turning usually means something is worn, loose or under load in the steering, suspension or wheel area. This UK mechanic-style guide explains CV joints, suspension bushes, ball joints, steering faults and MOT-related risks.
If your car knocks when turning, the most common causes are worn CV joints, suspension bushes, ball joints, strut top mounts, track rod ends, anti-roll bar links, wheel bearings or loose wheel fittings.
A repeated knock should not be ignored because steering, suspension and wheel faults can worsen and may affect safety, tyre wear, handling and MOT results.
A sharp repeated clicking on full lock often sounds like a CV joint. A dull clunk over bumps often points more towards suspension joints, bushes or anti-roll bar links.
A knock that started after wheel or tyre work needs urgent checking because a loose wheel is dangerous.
These are the faults I would think about first when a driver says the car knocks while turning.
Often causes clicking or knocking on full lock, especially while accelerating slowly in a car park.
Worn bushes can knock as the car changes direction, brakes, turns or loads one side.
May cause clunks, loose steering feel, uneven tyre wear or MOT failure if excessive play is found.
Can pop, creak, twang or knock as the steering turns.
Top mount MOT guide →Can cause knocking, steering play, poor alignment or uneven tyre wear.
Track rod end guide →Often knocks over bumps and can sound worse while turning on uneven roads.
Anti-roll bar link guide →Usually causes humming or rumbling, but turning can change the load and change the noise.
Wheel bearing MOT guide →A loose wheel, damaged nut, missing bolt or poor fitting can be dangerous and needs urgent checking.
Some low-speed scrub on full lock can sound odd, but it should not be a heavy metallic knock.
A knocking or clicking noise on full lock often points towards an outer CV joint, especially on front-wheel-drive cars. It may be louder when pulling out of a parking space, turning tightly at low speed or accelerating with the steering fully turned.
A split CV boot is a strong clue. Once grease escapes and dirt gets in, the joint can wear quickly.
Low-speed knocks often show up when the suspension and steering are loaded sharply.
Often points towards anti-roll bar links, bushes, ball joints, suspension arms or strut mounts.
Can suggest a strut top mount, steering rack, track rod end or power steering-related issue.
Can point towards suspension arm movement, worn bushes, loose brake parts or wheel fitting issues.
Have the wheel, tyre, suspension and steering checked for impact damage.
The direction of the turn can help identify which side is being loaded. Turning left often loads the right side of the car, while turning right often loads the left side.
That said, noise can travel through the body, subframe and suspension, so the source is not always obvious from the driver’s seat.
A garage road test and ramp inspection is usually the best way to confirm whether the fault is a CV joint, suspension joint, steering part, wheel bearing or loose fitting.
Guessing can waste money because several faults can make similar noises.
A new knocking noise after work has been done should be checked quickly.
Check wheel nuts, wheel seating, tyre size and whether the wheel is fouling anything.
Loose caliper bolts, pads, clips or shields can knock or rattle when turning or braking.
Check all bolts are tightened correctly and the alignment has been checked where needed.
A bent arm, damaged tyre, cracked wheel or altered alignment can cause new noises.
Look for sidewall bulges, wheel damage, pulling, steering vibration and knocking.
Tyre bulge guide →Do not keep driving if the noise sounds heavy, metallic or linked to wheel movement.
These checks help narrow down the noise before spending money on parts.
Check whether it happens on full lock, gentle turns, bumps, braking or acceleration.
Try to work out whether it comes from the left, right, front or rear.
Grease around the wheel, driveshaft or inner arch can suggest a split CV boot.
Look for uneven wear, bulges, loose fittings, damaged wheels or vibration.
Loose, vague, heavy or uneven steering should be inspected before regular driving.
Arrange a steering, suspension and wheel check if the noise repeats or worsens.
Yes. The knocking itself is only a symptom, but the cause may be an MOT issue. Worn suspension joints, excessive play, broken springs, insecure mountings, loose steering parts, wheel bearing play or unsafe wheel fittings can all cause MOT problems.
If the car is already knocking before the MOT, it is better to inspect it before test day rather than hoping the tester does not find the fault.
If the noise is occasional and light, the car may still drive, but it should be checked soon. Steering and suspension noises often worsen over time, especially if caused by play in a joint or damaged rubber boot.
Avoid driving if the steering feels loose, the car pulls strongly, the noise is loud, the wheel area feels unstable, or the car has recently hit a pothole hard.
Common questions about knocking noises during turning, parking and low-speed manoeuvres.
It may be a loaded suspension, CV joint, steering or wheel component on one side. The direction can help narrow it down, but noise can travel.
Full-lock knocking often points towards CV joint wear, especially if it clicks repeatedly while moving slowly.
Yes. Worn bushes can knock as the suspension moves and loads shift during cornering or braking.
It can be. Steering, suspension and wheel faults should be inspected if the noise repeats, worsens or affects handling.
Wheel bearings more often hum or rumble, but turning can change the sound if a bearing is worn.
Yes. Knocking can point to MOT-relevant steering, suspension or wheel defects.
Yes. If the noise started after tyre or wheel work, check wheel fittings urgently.
Note when the noise happens, check for obvious wheel or tyre issues, then arrange a steering and suspension inspection.
Motor Vehicle Expert publishes practical UK-focused vehicle diagnostics, maintenance, MOT, warning light, used car and repair cost guidance based on common driver questions and real-world garage situations.
